Thanks to the many who have sent me words of thanks and appreciation. It is touching that this journal is useful. In response to requests to share these essays with others: Yes. These posts are public. You can share the link to this site without asking me.
I am in Tel Aviv at the moment (1 PM). Time to eat lunch and head to Jerusalem.
Context Note: The “Is Raf OK?” series has content serious, speculative, superficial. I acknowledge that there is massive suffering going on. Tremendous suffering. The victims of October 7 and their families. Israeli soldiers and their families (ongoing). And in the West Bank and particularly Gaza where housing, water, and basic needs are in dire straits and uninvolved private citizens, used as human shields, are being maimed and killed every day. The suffering is immense. I can’t change this. I can only bring my small perspective to this messy picture.
Burning question from yesterday? Pizza in my neighborhood: Yes, the pizza place nearby is open. Until at least 10:30 PM! I had a slice of artichoke-tomato.
The liqueur store next to the pizza joint: %10 discount for residents of the South.
The classy restaurant two blocks away is also open. And empty.
A feral cat is howling outside. To the meat.
Jerusalem
Tel Aviv felt deader than usual today. After my fiasco with my new (no longer used) escooter, I am back to using Lime scooters. Made it to the train station in under thirteen minutes (usually 16). Even heavily loaded with an extra shopping bag. How? Very little traffic.
Trains are running. Half empty. No, 75% empty. Station kiosks are either closed or poorly stocked.
Happened Again
When I bought eggs yesterday, the clerk said “You know, these are organic eggs” (e.g. they cost %50 more than the regular eggs). Yes. Same thing the day before at a vegetable stand. I ask for a bottle of olive oil “You know, it is 40 shekels” (US$12). Yes. I would like it please. Today at the train station I buy a candy bar “Buy two, it’s cheaper” says the Arabic-speaking clerk. No, one is fine, thanks.
From My Phone
When rockets from Gaza head to my part of Tel Aviv (towns in the South get loads of these): My phone makes a berserk sound, and this message comes up:
Here is something new... trains running on shabbat.... At least some. (El Al and Israir are also flying on shabbat--a first.)
(Phone screens -- a turn on, right?)
Seen
Yoga class this morning had 20 folks in a room that can hold 30. Not bad. One guy came on a long, electric skateboard. The instructor didn't want the board in the studio. (Yoga instructors can be funny that way....) I suggested sticking it in a corner. That seemed to float. (Yoga instructors don't always pick up on the "I need this in the room with me" dynamic.)
Yeah, I'm on this page because two nights ago I went to the same studio, different instructor, and wasn't allowed to bring my daypack into the studio. My laptop was in it, and the bag didn't fit in the lockers. I suggested stashing the pack behind the trashcan in the studio. Was told No. Went home.
Call it boyish attachment to things.
Or "clean studio" fanaticism.
Whatever.
Heard
Slogan shrillness: "We Will Win" / "We Are Hated" / "Never Again is actually Ever Again" is old in my eyears (sic). Yes, the State has a lot of resources. Yes, in the short term it is reasonable to believe that the State (and its citizenry) will emerge largely intact (at least relative to Gaza in the South and Lebanon in the North — and yes, Raf understands that this is a far fucking cry from the projection Israelis currently maintain).
כוחנו - באחדותנו — “Our strength is in our unity” — Corner of Pinsker and Bograshov, Tel Aviv.
Felt
Abandonment. The way organizations of all kinds have been quick to call for a cease of hostilities, or to condemn Israel, without even acknowledging October 7. An example is Artforum, an international publication.
To Israeli ears, failure to acknowledge the violence of October 7 is complete rejection. It is, to Israeli (and many Jewish) ears, explicit alliance with Hamas and approval of their methods.
Fear
The English Language press finally picked up on the much-discussed-here discovery that the Hamas October 7 attackers were jacked up on a cocaine-like drug that enabled them to be much more violent than humans can normally be.
I haven't yet seen the English language press pick up on a widely voiced concern among Jewish Israelis: That Arab laborers (such as landscapers), from Gaza, made maps and personnel directories of the communities that Hamas attacked. Raf can't tell, so far, if these concerns are based on fact. (Further, even if a landscaper did this, was it done voluntarily or under duress? Hamas controls Gaza with an iron fist. Permission to leave Gaza or work outside is in the hands of Hamas. They can easily extract more than payment in exchange....) The Raf question: Is an uneducated landscaper, working for food money, to blame for identifying buildings on a picture Hamas found on the internet?
The Israeli response (regardless of the Raf question): Can I feel safe around Israeli Arabs who work in the hotel where I volunteer?
As mentioned the world is tribal. Everyone is held accountable for the actions of a few.
Relief Area
Alef
Tel Aviv, Aviv Beach, Monday Evening
Bet
Does dried fruit availability correlate to situational stability?
(Lower left are dried bananas—cut into strips, no added sugar. Yum yum yum.)
Gimmel
Dear Residents from the South and North!
We will be happy to host you at this difficult hour. Our house in Cesarea (super shmancy neighborhood) is empty, spacious and available! Swimming pool! And the kids are abroad!
For details, call Sarah
(oops, I gave you a different number…)
(The joke here is that the Leader sends his kids abroad when there is trouble, and Sarah is not known for her hospitality/generosity.)
Off to a shiva for a friend (his grandfather died).
Raf
— Thanks to A.K. for reviewing this piece